Update August 2nd, 2003. Restoration work has been stalled for several years now since moving to a new shop. I am busy
setting up and expanding my shop and business and at the same time I am
producing more metalwork. Repairs and restorations on this drill will continue
when I have more time, possibly during the winter months late 2003 or 2004.
The Canedy-Otto New Number 16 Drill
Here described is the beginning of a restoration to bring a very well made professional
model hand powered drill press back to life. At the time of this writing the drill has
been completely stripped down for cleaning and repair. More photos and updates will be
added to this page later for those who have interest in repairing and restoring old
machines and tooling. Click on thumbailed pictures to see full size.
What is this thing?
The New No. 16 is a large heavy duty 2-speed combination hand-cranked and lineshaft
driven drill press used by blacksmiths and machine shops from the end of the 19th
century until the early part of the 20th century. It stands nearly 6 feet tall from the
bottom of the pipe frame mount bracket to the top of the flywheel. This not counting that
the drill must still be mounted a couple feet higher yet to allow the table and hand crank
to be operated at a convenient height.
 This drill was meant to run with or without power. If
electrical, engine, or other mechanical power was not available to the smith, he simply
turned the hand crank to run the drill by hand. Although I didn't have a copy of the
manufacturers catalog to verify drilling capacity of the this drill, I found an
advertisement in a competitors catalog depicting a similar drill and the manufacturer
states their drill is rated to drill a 1-1/2 inch hole. Drill weight is about 500 lbs.
In the current photograph (top of page) taken before restoration was begun, the hand
crank that allows the operator to run the drill by hand was removed. The large feed handle
with its four handgrips imparts a semi modern appearance. And of coarse the dominating
feature is the extra large flywheel above.
Flywheel, gear changes, ( update later )
Did you say more than one
way to drill stuff with it?
The New No. 16 has two types of drill feed operation. The first is identical to modern
drill presses involving a lever wheel fastened to the quill spline shaft, which engages
the drill quill to force the drill spindle up and down. This is seen as the four large
lever handles on the left side (user’s right) of the upper frame of the drill. When
the drill is powered by belt to a motor or line shaft, the user need only loosen the
ratchet clutch and run the feed lever wheel up and down to move the drill in the desired
direction.
 Auto feed is the second method of drill
feed and is necessary when the user is cranking the drill by hand and holding the work at
the same time. Auto feed is accomplished by lever action of a set of reciprocating arms,
which rotate a ratchet wheel, which in turn through a series of gears forces the quill
shaft downward into the work at a preset speed. Power for the lever arms is obtained by
connecting them through an eccentric gear attachment, which is driven directly by rotation
of the drill itself. The eccentric connection of the New No. 16 is adjustable via a large
thumb wheel which is loosened and slipped the desired length along the T-bolt slot
machined into the eccentric gear, allowing down feed speed to be changed by the user.
 Down feed pressure can be controlled
during the auto feed operation by adjusting the large thumbwheel on the clutch mounted to
the quill spline shaft auto feed gear. This feature which is not common on most other
smaller presses, allows the operator to gig the drill quill up or down by simply grasping
the feed lever handles and turning them even with the auto feed engaged. In comparison
many smaller hand crank drills require the operator to disengage the ratcheting feed pawls
and turn the feed ratchet wheel and screw by hand until the drill is finally withdrawn.
This feed clutch option also allows the New N0. -16 user to limit and control the amount
of automatic down feed force, however down feed force should primarily be controlled by
setting the correct speed position adjustment of the eccentric gear T-bolt thumbwheel and
auto-feed ratchet arm.
Can you make it go
without cranking it?
Two pulleys about 10-3/4 inches in diameter and 2-3/4 inches wide are mounted on the
drill right (user left) side. The drive pulley is set-screwed directly to the drive shaft
and is mounted closest to the drill frame. The drive pulley is rigidly mounted to the
drive shaft so both rotate together. The idle or free pulley is mounted beside the drive
pulley on the drive shaft but is not keyed or rigidly mounted to the shaft. The idle
pulley can be turned freely so if the lineshaft belt is running, and the belt is shifted
onto the idle pulley, the drive shaft will not be forced to turn while the idle pulley is
spinning. When it is desired to operate a drill on a rotating line shaft, a weighted lever
with lugs surrounding the drive belt is pulled so the belt lugs drag the drive belt over
and onto the drive pulley. The drill will begin rotating. The idle pulley should be
expected to begin rotating also after a few seconds of drill operation. When the user
wants to stop the drill, the belt lever is pushed towards the idle pulley until the drive
belt is positioned entirely on the idle pulley and after a few seconds friction will bring
the drill to a stop.
Does it have a table like a real drill
press?
The drill table is adjustable in height by rotating a crank handle, which rotates a
jackscrew lifting, or lowering the table-mounting bracket. The table can be swung aside so
large pieces can be handled in the drill. A hand screw tightens the table more securely to
the frame after height is adjusted to desired level. Leveling screws beneath the table
plate adjust the level of the drill table. The table can be removed entirely by removing
the mounting clamp beneath the table plate. The table measures about 12inches square and
has a hole in the center to allow the drill bit to pass. Slots are cut in the table like
its modern day counterpart for the bolting and clamping of work.
 The jackscrew pinion gear was seized to
the shaft with rust and dirt. The pinion assembly consists of a jackscrew, mount casting,
crank pinion gear, and a shaft threaded to the pinion mount casting. A washer riveted to
the end of the shaft secures the pinion gear to the end of the shaft. The opposite end of
the shaft is threaded into the jackscrew casting. A riveted retaining pin is placed
through the hole drilled through the casting and through the threaded end of the shaft to
secure the shaft to the casting. Without the retaining pin the threaded shaft would
unscrew itself from the casting due to friction.
To remove the pinion gear, the shaft was threaded out of the mount casting after
drilling and driving out the riveted retaining pin. This whole assembly was disassembled
and cleaned and rubbed with emery cloth. The pinion gear was reinstalled on its shaft and
a new pin riveted in place to secure the pinion shaft. A piece of 3/16ths cold rolled
round was used to make a pin to rivet the shaft back in place.
Can you use regular drill bits and stuff in
it?
The drill spindle is machined to take a 5/8ths inch round shank
drill bit or chuck arbor. A pawl positioned in the side of the drill spindle in the form
of a wedge presses into the flat side ground on the round drill shanks or arbors so the
drill has a positive grip on them to force them to rotate when they encounter the
resistance to drilling. A special nut and collar fitted to the end of the spindle force
the wedge inward to tighten it. Very small "ears" are punched out of the sides
of the angled surface ( too small to be visible in this photo ) to catch the wedge and
stop it from falling through the slot in the side of the drill spindle. 
The 5/8ths inch round shank arbors can still be bought for now but this size is not
interchangeable with the Morse taper parts for other drills, and 5/8ths inch shank drill
bits are not available. So I have begun assembling an accessory kit to adapt the drill
spindle to Morse taper accessories. A pair of Morse Taper extensions with 3MT shanks and
2MT and 3MT sockets, were sent to a machine shop to have the shanks turned down to 5/8ths
inch round with a flat side. These extensions can be inserted in the spindle and Morse
taper drills and chuck arbors can be used with this drill. I chose not to machine the
drill press spindle to Morse taper so to preserve future historic value of the drill as a
museum quality antique. Notice that the shoulder of the barrel of the extension is
fitted closely to the bottom surface of the collet chuck. This I felt would add support to
a weakened area of the extensions. The ends of the 5/8ths inch arbors must be fitted and
cut closely to slide all the way into the collet of the spindle, yet not so short as to
create a loss of contact area which supports the extension inside the drill spindle. As
can be seen in the photo, the extensions can add considerable length to the drill spindle.
The chuck that came with the drill when I bought it was a
Standard #2 Improved made by The
Standard Tool Company of Cleveland Ohio. This is a large old fashioned style chuck as seen
in many antique advertisements from the turn of the century. It will take straight shank
bits from 1/16th to 3/4th of an inch. Follow this link for more on
this chuck.
Where's the crank handle?
The crank handle which rotates the drill spindle was straightened
and untwisted. A new wooden grip was made to fit onto the crank handle to replace the
missing wooden grip. The old one had worn off years ago. An example of the handle to be
copied was from the New no. 16 drill that can be seen in the blacksmith shop in Dows Iowa.
This is the style of handle which I had copied for my own drill spindle crank
handle. The crank for the height adjustment on my drill is missing. A
"new" table height crank may be purchased or possibly made by me at a later date
when the drill restoration is completed. The photo to the right is of that drill.
About the Dows Drill example. The drill at the Dows blacksmith shop, was converted long
ago into an electric only drill press with a motor mounted on the top rear of the frame.
They also made a pedestal frame stand to mount their drill like a regular modern drill
press. The handle that was still on their drill was the crank which adjusts the height of
the table. The Dows shop was a town blacksmith shop which also built wagons during the
early part of the 20th century. A line shaft once ran many of the tools in this
shop.
So where the heck did ya get it?
This drill was acquired at an antique engine steam power swap
meet. The story told to me is that the drill belonged to an old blacksmith in the Western
part of Iowa. The drill was mounted to a 12-inch post in a barn which the owner was using
for a workshop on his farm. The blacksmith used an old lineshaft to run all the machines
in his shop and an electric motor to run the line shaft. The owner was very old and was
quitting business. We believe this drill press was made around 1896.
How'd it get so dirty?
Judging by the condition of the drill it fell into disuse for
some years. Dirt, rust, and dried oil and grease caked on the gears and inside the
bearings. Temperatures during the fall and spring rise and fall dramatically inside a
workshop such as a barn or unheated blacksmith shop. Without the suns warming rays, tools
and stone get very cold and as the sun warms the building during the day, condensation
forms on the still cold machinery rusting exposed metal surfaces. Condensation also
collects the dust stirred up in a barn by farm animals, and this dust caked on to the
drill was probably responsible for preserving it in the condition it was when I bought it.
What have you done to it so far?
Current restorations actions taken:
- Belt adjustment lever cleaned, straightened, the one botched lug screw repair was
removed and the hole welded shut and re-drilled and tapped for 3/8 inch bolt, replaced and
ground off shoulder of replacement 3/8 inch carriage bolt installed.
- Thoroughly cleaned feed ratchet pawls and arms and shaft, worn ratchet pawls reground to
fit as new. Worm drive gear cleaned, shaft mount brackets cleaned.
- Clutch, pressure screw, and bracket cleaned. Threads cleaned to allow free rotation.
- Change gears disassembled and cleaned. Drive gears disassembled and cleaned. Power
transfer gear cleaned. Eccentric drive and eccentric gears cleaned. Eccentric ratchet
lever thumb screw cleaned and thread cleaned.
- The collar retaining the free pulley on the end of the drive shaft was found cracked
through around the set screw hole. The crack was repaired by welding but while cleaning up
the weld bead some of the repaired area was too hard for the file to cut. I plan to try to
anneal this before continuing to re-drill and thread the collar. The original hardness was
not tested before welding. If this collar was supposed to be hardened, it no longer is due
to the amount of heat during welding.
- All babbitt bearings are worn badly enough to require replacement. Upper spindle journal
bearing worn enough to allow spindle to wobble as drive gears thrust against it. The drill
will still operate ok but due to the large amount of time to disassemble and clean, I
decided to replace all now rather than later. After a four months on back order, the
babbitting supplies finally have arrived. The drill has sat disassembled long enough now
that an inventory must again be taken before beginning work with the babbitt. A set of
clamping bars have been made to hold the parts in place for babbitting. The frame of the
drill is one of the last pieces still needing cleaning and this must be done prior to
babbitting.
- A good oxide primer has been obtained from a Sherwin Williams source and painting of
completed parts will begin this week.
- A set of #2 and #3 MT extensions have been machined to fit the original collet chuck on
this drill. These extensions will be used as adapters to allow the use of regular MT drill
bits.
- A new wooden handle grip made by a local woodworker has been fitted to the crank handle.
- The table jack screw gearing which was seized, has been separated and cleaned and
reassembled.
Old babbitt bearings have been broken out of the frame
and the frame cleaned and readied for pouring new bearings. Things have slowed down on the
drill due to my current work load. Bearings will be poured when I have time
to work on this drill again.
Definitions:
The initials JT refer to Jacobs Taper, which is a standard type of taper used in
mounting drill chucks to arbors. MT refers to
Morse Taper which is a standard
machine taper often used for accurately centered mandrel and socket type fittings such as
fitting drill arbors to drill spindle sockets and lathe centers and tail end tools. An
"arbor" is a mandrel to which a drill chuck is fitted, and with which the chuck
can be mounted to the drill press Spindle shaft. When a Morse taper drill arbor is pressed
into a drill spindle, friction is strong enough to hold it there until pried apart with a
wedge.
There is still a lot more work to be done before the drill can be
reassembled
and a stand built and mounted. More updates will follow as work
progresses.
Photos of completed work will be added later.
Latest Update August 2nd, 2003.
Readers who have knowledge or documentation concerning
professional inspection and repair of this drill are invited to
mail the author at the email address below. NOTE: this does not include silly
little sales advertisements from old magazines or catalogs. I am looking for
real information concerning maintenance inspection and repair. A mechanic's
service manual must have existed at one time for the higher priced heavy duty
drills sold by the Canedy Otto company but I haven't been able to locate one
yet.
The author can be emailed at address in picture below:
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